To say Duckie Brown’s Fall 2016 show was well-edited would be an understatement. The designer presented 6 impeccable looks—and just 6 looks at New York Fashion Week Men’s. But each demonstrated expert tailoring, and felt authentic to the brand. There was no need for frills—or 50 extra looks, either.
Public School’s designers Maxwell Osborne and Dao-Yi Chow’s cited the late artist David Bowie’s film “The Man Who Fell to Earth” as the influence for their Fall 2016 collection, which played with interesting fabrics and unexpected proportions. But it was a simple piece—this classic moto jacket—that really stood out. Expect to see this item make the transition from runway to reality this fall.
Simon Miller Fall 2016: Look 1
With a new co-creative director at the reigns, many were eager to see how this young brand would evolve this season. Turns out, Fall 2016 called for a utilitarian return to nature—with monochromatic knits and cropped trousers in a neutral palette, and expertly rinsed, structured denim.
For his ’30s-inspired Fall 2016 collection, Robert Geller focused on outerwear—playing with a variety of tones, shapes and fits. This exposed trench paired with a cream turtleneck and sunken fedora balanced the proportions effectively.
Always partial to outerwear offerings, Ovadia & Sons took cues from the European designers by utilizing fur. This sumptuous grey wool parka with a fur lining, however, felt more wearable than its European counterparts—and will be all over the streets come fall.
Tim Coppens Fall 2016: Look 20
Amongst the bombers and athletic trousers that Tim Coppens is best known for were a new offering of military coats, unexpected wool tartans, and novelty graphic sweatshirts and tees with a nod to hallucinogenic drugs. The ACID pieces are part of a capsule collection for the brand that launches this week, just in case you didn’t know what to wear for the women’s shows.
Jeffrey Rudes Fall 2016: Look 5
From the man that brought us J Brand, comes a men's wear line by the name of Jeffrey Rudes. Now in its second season, the sleek line of updated classics focused on a Jet Set ideology for the fall season. There were plenty of decadent fabrications including velvet and leather, but the standout was this lush suede trench that evoked a subtle '70s vibe.
Billy Reid Fall 2016: Look 24
Billy Reid always stays true to his heritage-inspired design aesthetic--even when designing formalwear. The oversized proportions of this double breasted suiting option with a unique use of flannel as the underpinning were the perfect balance.
Michael Kors Fall 2016: Look 3
Michael Kors’ fall collection was made for the man who “went to LA, flew to Aspen, and then jumped on a plane to New York” all in the same jacket. This Jet Set gentleman is also investing in a calf-grazing toffee fur coat- try to keep up with that.
Tommy Hilfiger Fall 2016: Look 1
Tommy Hilfiger's Americana roots evolved this season thanks to new shapes and silhouettes. A highlight was the puddled leg striped pajamas paired with a refined military overcoat finished with beautiful details like an exaggerated collar and cuffs.
Orley Look 30
Orley stayed true to their roots by showing many of the same knitted techniques that launched their business. However, the shining star of the collection was something unexpected: a nautical cable-knit with deconstructed finishing. Hopefully, we’ll see more of this in the future.
Gypsy Sport Look 13
Since winning the CFDA/ Vogue Fashion Fund, it seems that Gypsy Sport is trading in some of the irreverence of seasons past in favor of some commercial staying power. This ensemble, a striped denim and turtleneck with an oversized denim jacket, felt like a modern take on 1970’s streetwear.
Theory Look 5
A brand synonymous with elevated basics, Theory displayed its usual offering of well-finished staples this season. But these beautifully braided cable-knits were an unexpected surprise, and look like something that both men and women will want to live in come fall.
John Elliot Look 11
Now in his third season, John Elliot is looking a bit more mature in his hand at design than previous seasons. Still in his signature tonal palette, the clothes’ craftsmanship and fit stood out. However, the textures of this monochromatic grey look were the true highlight of the show.
Siki Im Look 8
Extracting a visceral reaction from onlookers, Siki Im used black paint to resemble dried blood thrown onto the models’ mouths and chests. Emblazoned t-shirts and leather or textured coats such as this one felt at home next to the gruesome make-up, and made his inspiration of Vampire films clearly known.
Todd Snyder Look 21
Exploring the relationship between an outdoor uniform and fine tailoring, Todd Snyder meld the two with sophistication as shown in this camel shearling. Also new for Snyder, is another collaboration to add to his roster, this time with Cole Haan.