The marathon that is fashion month has finally come to an end, with the fashion flock gleefully packing their bags and heading home. After hundreds of shows across New York, London, Milan, and Paris, it is often difficult to recall what we have seen, what new labels have launched, and what trends—new or otherwise—we are excited about. This season however, five new labels have stood out in our memory that are worth mentioning here as labels everyone should keep their eye on.
While some critics have been lamenting the dearth of big designers at New York Fashion Week, the benefit of an emptier schedule is the opportunity for new talents to actually have their wares seen by fashion editors and buyers. Both Caroline Hu and Graham Tyler hosted intimate affairs—Hu’s painterly designs shown in an elegant town house, Tyler’s designs in a studio space in Greenwich Village—where the designers and their visions made a clear impression on editors. One could call the designer Tomo Koizumi’s debut the exact opposite of intimate; his runway show, orchestrated by the stylist Katie Grand, was in the basement of Marc Jacobs’s uptown store and was packed to the brim.
Over in Paris, Susan Fang made a strong impression with her clever hand-done knits and fun accessories made from clear baubles at the cocktail party celebrating those short-listed for the LVMH Prize. While fashion industry luminaries like Naomi Campbell and Carine Roitfeld walked around and checked out the collections, the young talent graciously introduced her collection to everyone who stopped by her rail.
Another notable launch, or relaunch, technically speaking, was that of Coperni, a label cherished by cool girls everywhere, where after leaving the helm of Courrèges, Sébastien Meyer and Arnaud Vaillant are back with chic ready-to-wear and covetable Instagram-ready accessories. Meet all of our designers to watch, here.
Proving that Instagram is still one of fashion’s favorite ways to discover worldwide emerging talent, W’s Contributing Fashion Editor Katie Grand discovered Tomo Koizumi via the app. The Japanese designer, with Grand’s help, created quite a splash, with Rowan Blanchard opening the show, Bella Hadid walking, and a creative team that any emerging designer would die for; Pat McGrath spearheaded makeup, while Guido Palau did hair. Everyone from assistants to fashion directors crammed into the nooks and crannies of the basement of Marc Jacobs’s uptown store to catch a glimpse of Koizumi’s beautifully constructed rainbow tulle dresses. Without a doubt, his show was the talk of New York Fashion Week.
If the delicate concoctions at Caroline Hu’s debut presentation at New York Fashion Week reminded you a bit of Rodarte’s, you wouldn’t be alone. The Parsons graduate’s romantic and painterly pieces in pastel hues made us feel like we were in a Manet work, and though her designs are very feminine, pairing her dresses with slouchy socks and chunky shoes gave them a modern touch. Fans of Molly Goddard and Simone Rocha rejoice—you have a new New York–based designer to love.
Susan Fang’s namesake London-based label was just short-listed for the prestigious LVMH Prize. Originally from China, Fang grew up in North America and then relocated to London upon her acceptance to Central Saint Martins. After working at both Céline and Stella McCartney, she decided to launch her own line, with mathematics as a key point of inspiration and innovative textiles a key focus. Her covetable accessories, including bags and jewelry, are made with clear baubles and are as fun to play with as they are to wear.
If Graham Tyler’s name sounds familiar, it may be because you know some of his work: He has created gorgeous headpieces for the likes of Katy Perry, Lady Gaga, and Beyoncé. But the emerging designer does so much more than that, as evidenced by his debut New York Fashion Week presentation, in February. In a palette that was completely devoid of color, Tyler’s tailored jacquard pieces were influenced by traditional pilgrim and Amish wear, his childhood, and a mural in his family’s church. It is very fitting that Tyler’s tagline on his Instagram profile reads “memory in cloth.”
A very special mention goes out to the French label Coperni. Although not exactly new (for those who don’t remember, Sébastien Meyer and Arnaud Vaillant launched Coperni in 2013, before taking the reins at Courrèges), the label was relaunched just in time for fall 2019, much to the delight of French It girls. The collection now features a soon-to-be It bag, an oval-shaped bag in stamped croc, great sandals, and suiting and shirting. Have no doubt Coperni will again be the label for forward and easy dressing.